Cowgirl
519 Hudson Street
212-633-1133
www.cowgirlnyc.com

If you're looking for some colorful flare with your family fare, mosey on down to Cowgirl, a West Village staple that's celebrating its 20th year on the corner of Hudson and West 10th Street.

"Texas-friendly is spoken here," said Cowgirl co-founder Devra Dedeaux. "It's something people expect and we dish it out."

Business partners Sherry Holmes, Joel Gordin and Devra Dedeaux said they set out to create to a down-home eatery that welcomes the youngsters, at least during the day.

"After the kids go to bed, the wild West Village comes out and we cater to an eclectic crowd," said Holmes.

That crowd tends to sidle up the bar to sample what Zagat surveyors describe as "knock-your-socks-off" margaritas.

"They're clean and crisp," described bartender Jennica Kilbride.

When it comes to the chow, portions at Cowgirl are sure to satisfy, with burgers bigger than a 10-gallon hat. Another popular item on the mostly Tex-Mex menu is the Frito pie -- a helping of chili served over chips right in the bag.

A staple of western food is of course meat and potatoes. At Cowgirl, potatoes are dessert, but they aren't served baked and hot -- they're served cold because, as ice cream.

"We scoop vanilla ice cream and mold it into the shape of a large baked potato," said Gordin. "That is then rolled in cocoa powder with a touch of cinnamon. We then scoop whipped cream on top in place of sour cream, and then pecans that are sitting in green food color in place of chives.

Ice cream disguised as potatoes isn't the only surprise served up at cowgirl. Outside, the window display changes constantly. This month, they're letting their rainbow flag fly for the Gay Pride Parade on Sunday, the restaurants busiest day of the year.

"We always try to include a lot of humor and play on words," said Dedeaux of the window display. "June is Gay Pride Month, so we celebrate it here at Cowgirl being in the heart of Greenwich Village."

The Zagat Guide describes the restaurant as "kitschy", and "festive" with a "sense of humor".

Out of a possible 30, Zagat gives Cowgirl a 16 for food, a 17 dŽcor and a 16 for service. Surveyors say a meal here will run you about $27.

- Tara Lynn Wagner