Thursday, December 25, 2014

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The editors of look at food and drink across New York City's five delicious boroughs.

Chow: Scotch Eggs At South Williamsburg's Rye Restaurant

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Every week, Rye restaurant in Brooklyn preps dozens and dozens of Scotch Eggs, packing thick layers of Italian pork sausage around hard-boiled eggs to deep-fry for their customers. contributing editor Liza de Guia filed the following report on this British-style bar snack.

At Rye in South Williamsburg, a comfy neighborhood restaurant, the Scotch Egg is a popular item on the bar menu.

Scotch eggs are not just some kind of pickled egg that sits in a glass jar. In fact, owner and chef Cal Elliott thinks they’re a lot like a really good egg sandwich.

The Scotch Egg at Rye was, oddly enough, inspired after a trip to the West Coast a few years ago, when a boardwalk vendor sold one to Cal as a beach snack. He took one bite and knew he could make it better.

First he hard-boils his eggs, then wraps them in a thick layer of sweet Italian pork sausage sourced from a third-generation prime meat shop in Manhattan. The sausage has hints of rosemary, fennel and paprika.

Then, to hold the meat in place, he flours and dips them in an egg wash, then rolls them in panko to give them a nice crunch. When an order comes in, they’re dropped in the fryer for seven minutes until golden brown.

Most peoples’ Scotch eggs stop there, but Chef Cal takes it a step further. To add contrast and more texture, he serves the egg on top of crispy, smoky bacon with a bed of frisee and horseradish vinaigrette on the bottom, finishing the dish with a special Mornay cheese sauce. It’s a mix of gruyere, mascarpone, sharp white cheddar and pecorino.

The perfect bite includes a little bit of all the fixings, smothered in cheese sauce. It’s a little chewy, crispy, salty, creamy, bitter and sweet and looks like a nice salad with a meat-crusted hard-boiled egg in the middle.

Order it with a plate of their house-made pickles and wash it all down with a cold Blue Point Lager from the tap. If you come at happy hour, Scotch Eggs are a deal at only $4.

Rye Restaurant is at 247 South 1st Street between Havemeyer and Roebling in Brooklyn.

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