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There’s been a lot of buzz about Ample Hills Creamery. Co-owner Brian Smith says they’re the only Brooklyn ice cream parlor making it completely from scratch, right down to pasteurizing on site.

Smith runs the place with his wife Jackie, and they named Ample Hills after a line from a Walt Whitman poem. Their two-year-old son and four-year-old daughter are very happy with their dad’s decision to leave professional screenwriting and go into ice cream.

Ample Hills makes a lot of flavors with a lot of texture. There’s maple with bits of real bacon, and homemade peanut butter cookies in peanut butter ice cream. But my favorite was the vanilla malted with malted-milk balls.

Brian makes his ice cream base in a vat pasteurizer, using sugar, natural stabilizers, milk, heavy cream and eggs. He cooks the mix for an hour and a half, then quickly cools it using a 100-gallon tank.

Once it’s cold, he adds malt powder and a bourbon vanilla extract and uses an immersion blender to mix them together. He puts the mixture into an ice cream maker while he smashes malted milk balls with the bottom of a shot glass. He tosses the smashed maltballs into the ice cream as it’s poured into these cardboard containers, and then he freezes it.

Anybody who loves malted milkshakes or malted milk balls is going to flip for this. It’s perfectly creamy, with just the right amount of texture, and I like it in the homemade spiral cone, which is made with real vanilla beans.

A close second was the cinnamon, which is delicately spiced and fantastic with a homemade hot fudge made using Valhrona and Guittard chocolate.

Ample Hills Creamery is at 623 Vanderbilt Ave between St Marks & Bergen Street.

For more eating recommendations, visit CHOW.com.